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A note from Dirty Smith:
As the summer slows down, so has my schedule; which finally gives me the time to get back to some Dirty Smith and you! That means relaunching the newsletter, bringing back fresh content, and hopefully lining up some fun fall contests. In a world of fast-paced media, the mission to this newsletter is to dig beneath the surface. Whether you are lighting your first forge, building your own shop, or refining continuous architectural layouts, this newsletter is here as your practical companion to understanding how metal moves.
-Rory
Example of the latest Dirty Smith Newsletter:
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Hammer Control:
3 Lessons from 19th-Century Blacksmithing
When you are first getting started at the anvil, it’s easy to focus purely on heavy hitting and loud. Furthermore as M.T. Richardson lays out in Practical Blacksmithing, true craftsmanship isn't about raw force…it’s about energy transfer, control, and efficiency.
If you want your metal to move predictably without tearing up your material (or your elbow), here are three foundational concepts every blacksmith needs to master.
1. Set Your Anvil Height for Efficiency
Before you even light the forge, check your setup. A classic rule of thumb from historic shop practice is setting your anvil height so your knuckles lightly touch the face when standing upright with your arm hanging loose.
Too High:Â You lose mechanical advantage, leading to rapid shoulder fatigue and shallow surface marks.
Too Low:Â You miss target control and risk bending the wrist on impact.
Dirty Smith tip: I did this anvil height setup once when I got a new anvil, but also noticed my back was sore after a day of forging. So I adjusted the height until I was comfortable. So take this note with some caution. Its a starting point, but not the final position.Â
2. Learn Face-to-Face vs. Edge Striking
How your hammer face meets the metal dictates where the material flows:
Flat Hits: Distribute energy evenly across the surface to smooth and planish without shifting stock sideways.
Peen/Edge Hits: Direct force in a targeted direction, rapidly drawing out length or widening stock along a specific axis.
3. Read the Fire, Save the Steel
Richardson emphasizes that metal control begins in the fire, long before stock touches the face:
Scaling Heat:Â Pushing steel into bright orange without working it quickly creates heavy scale buildup and pitted surfaces.
Burning Heat: If you see white sparks flying in the forge, stop immediately—you’re burning carbon out of the steel and destroying its structural integrity.
THE TAKEAWAY
Next time you step up to the anvil, slow down your strike cycle. Focus on flat, intentional blows, keep your metal at a workable bright-red to yellow heat, and let the tool do the heavy lifting.
What fundamental skill are you currently working to dial in at your shop? Hit reply and let me know!
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